I shall attempt to de-rot myself via intellectual activities like…writing.
After nearly 3 months in India, Chris and I were thoroughly templed out. We’ve seen countless Jain temples, tibetan monasteries, sexy carving temples, simple local temples, rat temple (stupid Chris), mosques and Buddhist temples.
Lonely Planet guide book 2011 said Tamil Nadu temples will wow even the most temple-weary souls. They are right!
What set these temples apart is not only their unique Dravindian architecture and tall gopurams of brightly coloured sculptures of Gods. These places are very ‘local’. Pilgrims from all over India flock to these temples to give offerings and to pray. There is no foreigner trap, no neatly manicured lawns and Golden framed ticket booth. No western restaurants or typicsl western ‘backpacker’ clothes to sell.
It’s Tamil Nadu, as India as it gets, honk, dust, screech, and so much, so much devotion and worship from its people.
First stop: Chidambaram.
Too bad picture taking isn’t allowed in most of these temples. A Brahmin priest marched up to me and demanded I delete the photo “Now Madam, NOW. Picture of temple only, not of Gods.”
I understand though. The level of devotion we witnessed was incredible.
Entrance to Nataraja temple. These high gateways are called gopurams. Cool eh. Most people worship Shiva, the destroyer. It’s because he destroys that new and good can be created. He’s feared and revered at the same time.
So the story goes that Shiva had a dance off with his wife, Parvati (or one of her incarnations). He kind of cheated by lifting his foot to his face (whaaat type of flexibility is that?) during the dance, and his wife could not copy it as it’s forbidden for women to expose their calves. She got really pissed off by the way, and devotees used to throw butter balls at her to calm her down.
Guardians – big eyed, fangs… 6 feet tall, to scare us baddies away.
There is art everywhere. On the ceiling, on the floor, in the detailed sculptures.
Large complex
It is a big complex with a main temple and mini shrines around, and gopurams north, South, East and west.
Inside the temples are devotees praying, mumbling, totally absorbed in worship.
-They touch the floor to their forehead.
-They smear ash or coloured powder on their foreheads. White ash – to remind/represent death. Coloured powder – women dot red powder to their foreheads. If they do it between their eyebrows, they have not yet married. If they have, they dot it further up, right on the hairline.
-They knock themselves on the head and pull their ears and bend their knees a few times. This represents how a god might be chiding them like how a teacher might reprimand a child. Knocking their head and pulling their ears also wakes them up and shows how serious their heart felt prayers are.
-some women have a yellow sheen on their face and hands. It’s turmeric, not jaundice. Meant for clearing skin thus beautifying themselves. If they have lost their husband, it is a sad sad situation. No more putting turmeric/making themselves pretty.
I get this from temple guides. They ARE worthwhile. I wish I had not been so skeptical and got temple guides when I could.
While temple guides were good, my memory is warped. Please let me know and don’t hate me if I have made mistakes.
P. S. When a temple guide presents himself to you, check 2 things – one, that he gives you I-am-a-good-person vibes. Two, that you can understand his English.
We paid the dude in Tanjavur 300 rs. The dude in Madurai 200 rs. An hour for both. The one in madurai used to be an English teacher. Thank ganesh.
Next up: Tanjavur
Where we stayed! Clean and with cable TV thank goodness.
Entrance.
Upclose.
Within the compound.
Nandi, Shiva’s humongous bull. He’s licking his lips – he’s full and is digesting his food. Happy belly, happy bull.
Chris and humongous bull.
This is the third gateway devotees have to walk through. The first was the main gateway. Huge. The second, temple doorway, less huge. This one, small. To remind of the journey from birth to death – eventually we return back to earth, small, old, wrinkly, and even smaller later, as ash. Hmm. Doesn’t make sense. Can’t quite remember. Well there is some significance there!
Inside the temple there is a queue of devotees, waiting to be blessed by Brahmin priest and to pray to the Shiva lingam. It’s basically a giant penis. Really! Without the outline and detail. It represents creation.
So it went that back in the days when this temple was built, the king wanted something ‘permanent’ in the temple, just in case he lost his Kingdom to another king. He had the shiva lingam constructed first, larger than the doorway that was built around it next, so that future kings will not be able to easily get it out of the door. (just hammer the thing and take it out in pieces right!?)
Fascinating old temple paintings on the ceiling.
Smears on our forehead! Exhausted.
Third temple. And most magnificent: Sri Meenakshi Temple in Madurai.
You have to deposit your cameras and phones at the counter! We didn’t have to pay an entrance fee as we went through this gopuram :
West tower, straight up from Temple street. It will be the first gateway you see if you came from the train station. Other entrances charged foreigners 50 rs.
It was massive! There were 12 gopurams and a labyrinth of temples and worshipping areas. Lots of corners to turn.
We were still navigating our way outside when we turned a corner and Whoa there was A TEMPLE ELEPHANT! Why hello! It was all dolled up in coloured powder and some head ornament. Too bad no camera. One big foot was in chains, and its handler was sitting there collecting donations. You basically step forward, hand your donation to le elephant, it sucks or scoops (if you handed coins) the money from your hand, lifts its giant trunk over your grinning face and thonks you gently on your head, then passes the money to its handler. Any amount will do. This is not a tourist trap.
I WAS SO CHUFFED and so was Chris. We stood there watching others get thonked. Little kids and some women were smiling and a bit scared of the massive animal. Others were coolio.
Inside, we saw male devotees prostrating in front of Shiva… And his lingam. There was an enclosed area where the tip of one sculpture was pure gold. Wow. Gold. Women aren’t allowed to prostrate. They merely kneel and bow till their head touches the floor. Not feminine to prostrate I suppose.
There was another area where people were walking 9 times around an enclosed area. Lots of little lights of ghee dot the ground. Don’t unlike those Ikea tea lights, but in tiny gold cups, filled with ghee.
So it goes that they believe, just like other cultures believe, that when we were born there was a certain alignment of stars. Jupiter, Mars, etc. Sometimes these stars are aligned ‘badly’ and things don’t go too well e.g. Can’t find a job. Walk clockwise 9 times around the enclosure and your planet misalignment will be set right
Every pillar is carved from a single block of stone and if the carver made a mistake and a chip of stone fell off, he will have to start on another block of stone. Must preserve sacredness of temple.
I was most impressed by this temple. Natural light shone through, as did a lovely breeze. It was the biggest complex out of the 3. Having a competent guide answer all your questions while you take a stroll around, admist statues here and there, watching locals do their thing (there are so many things to worship. There are the main areas and other little shrines around)…it was fascinating. Very fascinating.
No pictures inside so more pictures outside:
There’s happy Nandi again.
Shiva in various reincarnations – turtle, merman.
Regular honks and dust. Streets around these temples are rubbish free. Super clean.
Fresh Fruit juice everywhere! No sugar, no ice. Filled to the brim. 30 rs (60 cents)
🙂
Cherry Red Shoes 