We have been in Varkala for the last 5 nights and I feel myself rotting. Slowly but surely. Don’t get me wrong, I love the beach. BUT. After traveling around India for 3 months, this is quite…crap. It’s so touristic I could be in Bali or Phuket or wherever. They’re all the same traps that make me feel so…stupid!
What’s wrong with me?! A beach holiday is a beach holiday, no? All relaxing and do nothing and lie in the sun all day? Don’t know exactly. Might be because I find Varkala beach so devoid of character and charm. It feels like a big set up, crammed full of lodging, expensive western restaurants (hey man. After 40 rs veg briyani I find 120rs for a measly veg briyani ridiculous), and shops selling the same tourist stuff and clothes that are made for tourists. Any direction you walk in is lined with locals desperate for your attention. Walk past 5 shops/restaurants and 6 locals will call out, “mam, what’s your name, which country, korea, Japan, konichiwa… Come inside, hello how are you. Hey! Mam, HELLO MAM!” good lord if you don’t go in they yell at you like it’s your fault! Leave us alone for the love of ganesh. Doesn’t help that I’m claustrophobic. Everything is mega cramped here.
Ok rant over. Now let me talk about the good bits. ie the reasons why we’ve been here 5 nights and counting.
(eh hem, clears throat and puts on a wide smile)
The ocean is magnificent. Really. It’s either Lakshadweep (what a name! Say it 10 times, fast) sea or the Arabian Sea. Varkala beach town is built upon the cliffs that overlook the sea. Stand anywhere on the cliff and you get a panoramic view of the sea. Spectacular. Waves are massive, pretty inspiring to watch but scary when you’re in the water. Don’t go out too far! We saw one dad go in with his… 7? year old daughter who had arm bands and goggles on. I wouldn’t do that if I had a child! She was constantly pinching her nose as the waves overtook her and daddy. The waves gush then drag you from underneath. Daddy had a firm grip on her but still…
Since it’s low season you get basic rooms with fan, quarter view of the sea (blocked by a more expensive place), wifi (yahoooo!) and attached bathroom for only 300 rs (7.50 sgd). Cottages cost about 1000 rs, also a good price. Walk up from papanasam beach out to temple road junction and there is a good local food place called sreenapam (or something!). A bus into varkala town to get fruits etc cost 6 rs.
Route towards papanasam beach.
Stupid picture of me but cute doggie! Lots of dogs around.
Oh yeah. Papanasam beach is the holy beach. This is where locals go to pray and also to splash around, fully clothed. The foreigner’s hangout is at the black beach. Wear your bikini or go in your lingerie. Nobody cares! Woohoo. There is no tap to rinse so we just bring a bottle of tap water to get the sand off.
Playtime…
Cherry Red Shoes 